Darnleys

Darnleys is a modern British restaurant near Haslemere, in the south-western corner of Surrey where the county starts to feel more like the Weald than the commuter belt. It describes itself as stylish and intimate, with contemporary surroundings and food that leans on the seasons, and there are subtle Asian influences running through the cooking. That last point is worth holding on to: this is not fusion cooking in the loud sense, but a modern British kitchen that borrows where it suits.

The price band is £££, which in practical terms puts it above a gastropub dinner and below the very top of the county's dining. Expect to be spending properly on a two- or three-course meal with a drink, and expect the presentation and service to reflect that. It is the sort of bill you plan for rather than stumble into after a walk.

Who it suits: couples, mainly. Darnleys is pitched squarely at date nights, and the combination of a small, contemporary dining room and carefully plated food is built for two people sitting opposite each other rather than a table of ten. It would also work for a quiet anniversary, a birthday for someone who cares about food, or the kind of dinner where you want the room to be calm enough to hear each other. Larger groups and children's birthdays are probably better served elsewhere.

Seasonal menus are the other headline. That means the offering moves through the year, and it also means there is no point looking up a dish you read about six months ago and turning up expecting it. Check what is actually being served before you travel, particularly if anyone in your party has dietary requirements, a kitchen that changes its menu regularly may or may not be able to accommodate at short notice, and it is a quick call to make.

A few practical points. The listed address is simply Haslemere, Surrey, and the restaurant is described as being near the town rather than on the high street, so confirm the exact location and parking arrangements when you book. Haslemere has a mainline station with reasonable London connections, which makes the town a plausible destination for people coming out from the city as well as locals, but check the timings both ways if you are relying on the train after dinner. Opening days and hours are not something this note can confirm, ring ahead.

Haslemere is a town with a settled, well-kept feel and a population that supports more than its size might suggest. Darnleys sits in that market: a small, considered restaurant charging proper money for proper cooking, aimed at people who want an evening out rather than simply a meal. If that is what you are after, it is a sensible choice. If you want somewhere relaxed and cheap, look elsewhere in the town.